Best Dunnage Materials for Protecting Artifacts During Transit

Quick answer

For fragile artifacts, archival-quality polyethylene foam is the most reliable dunnage because it resists off-gassing, cushions impacts, and won’t degrade over time. Pair it with custom-cut inserts for irregular shapes or use closed-cell bubble wrap for flat items. Always test your packing before shipping to avoid costly damage during transit.

If you need a proven system that museums trust, Zero-Damage Artifact Transport walks you through every step, from material selection to final crating.

Why dunnage choice matters for artifacts

Artifacts aren’t just fragile—they’re irreplaceable. A single bump during transit can cause micro-fractures, abrasions, or worse. The wrong dunnage can leave abrasive dust on surfaces, trap moisture that causes corrosion, or fail to stop sudden shocks. Even experienced handlers make mistakes when they rely on generic packing materials instead of materials designed for cultural heritage.

Good dunnage does three things: it stabilizes the artifact so it doesn’t shift, cushions it against shocks, and protects it from environmental changes like humidity or temperature swings. The best materials also meet museum standards for longevity, so your packing doesn’t become part of the problem years later.

Top dunnage materials tested by conservators

Archival polyethylene foam (recommended for most artifacts)

This closed-cell foam is chemically inert, resists moisture, and won’t crumble or off-gas harmful vapors. It’s available in densities from soft (for delicate ceramics) to firm (for heavy metal objects). Conservators use it for everything from paintings to ethnographic objects because it’s predictable and long-lasting.

Example: A 19th-century porcelain teapot travels safely when nestled in 1-inch thick archival foam cut to its exact shape. The foam absorbs shocks and prevents the teapot from sliding, even during rough handling.

Custom-cut archival foam inserts (best for irregular shapes)

Off-the-shelf foam rarely fits perfectly, but custom inserts mold exactly to your artifact’s contours. They eliminate empty space where the item could shift and reduce the need for extra padding. Museums order these inserts from specialist suppliers who use laser cutting or CNC routing to achieve precise fits.

Tip: If you’re shipping multiple artifacts, order inserts in sets so each piece has its own dedicated cavity. Label the inserts clearly to avoid mix-ups during unpacking.

Closed-cell polyethylene bubble wrap (good for flat or rigid items)

This bubble wrap is thicker and more durable than standard household wrap. It resists punctures and won’t leave adhesive residue. Use it for flat artifacts like prints, textiles, or small sculptures that need even cushioning across their surface.

Warning: Avoid bubble wrap with large bubbles for delicate surfaces—it can concentrate pressure. Stick to 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch bubble size for artifacts.

Volara foam (lightweight and shock-absorbent)

Volara is a cross-linked polyethylene foam that’s lighter than standard archival foam but just as shock-resistant. It’s ideal for lightweight artifacts like paper, photographs, or small metal objects where weight savings matter. It also resists moisture and mold growth.

Use case: A collection of daguerreotypes travels safely in Volara pouches that cushion each plate individually while keeping the total weight low for air freight.

Ethafoam rods or tubes (for structural support)

These rigid foam rods can be cut to length and used to brace artifacts inside crates. They prevent crushing by creating a rigid framework around the item. Conservators often use them for wooden artifacts, furniture, or large sculptures that need internal support.

Example: A carved wooden panel is secured between two Ethafoam rods inside a crate. The rods take the weight of the crate lid, so the panel doesn’t bear the pressure.

Acid-free tissue paper and unbleached cotton (for wrapping and separation)

These materials don’t contain lignin or acids that can yellow or corrode artifacts over time. Use them to wrap artifacts before adding dunnage, or to separate layers of fragile items in the same crate. They’re inexpensive and easy to source from archival suppliers.

Pro tip: Fold tissue paper into small pouches to cushion tiny artifacts like beads or coins. Avoid crumpling it directly against surfaces, as loose fibers can stick to adhesives.

What to avoid: materials that can harm artifacts

Some dunnage materials seem convenient but can cause long-term damage. Here’s what to skip:

• Newspaper or magazine pages: The ink and acids can transfer to artifacts and cause staining or corrosion.
• Bubble wrap with large bubbles: The concentrated pressure points can dent or scratch delicate surfaces.
• Styrofoam peanuts: They crumble, create static, and can stick to artifacts with static cling.
• Cardboard inserts: Cardboard absorbs moisture and can warp, leaving gaps where artifacts shift.
• Plastic bags: They trap moisture and can cause condensation or mold growth.

If you’re unsure about a material, do a simple pH test: dampen a small piece and press it against pH paper. A pH between 6 and 8 is safest for most artifacts.

How to choose the right dunnage for your artifact

Not all artifacts are the same. Use this table to match your artifact type to the best dunnage:

Step-by-step packing guide for international transit

1. Prepare the artifact

Clean the artifact gently with a soft brush or microfiber cloth to remove dust. Inspect for existing damage and document it with photos. If the artifact is sensitive to light or temperature, note its environmental requirements.

2. Wrap the artifact

Use acid-free tissue paper to wrap the artifact in layers, starting from the most delicate parts. For fragile edges or protrusions, add extra layers of tissue. Avoid stretching or pulling on the artifact during wrapping.

3. Choose your dunnage

Select dunnage based on the artifact’s shape, weight, and fragility. For irregular shapes, opt for custom-cut foam inserts. For flat or rigid items, use closed-cell bubble wrap or Volara foam. Always use enough dunnage to fill empty space in the crate.

4. Build the crate

Start with a sturdy crate that’s slightly larger than the artifact. Line the bottom with a layer of foam or bubble wrap. Place the wrapped artifact inside, then fill all gaps with additional dunnage. Add a layer of foam or bubble wrap on top before sealing the crate.

5. Secure the crate

Use screws or heavy-duty straps to secure the crate lid. Add “Fragile” and “Handle with Care” labels, plus arrows indicating the correct orientation. Include a packing list and contact information inside the crate in case the exterior labels are damaged.

6. Test the packing

Before shipping, perform a drop test: lift the crate to waist height and drop it onto a hard surface. If the artifact shifts or the dunnage compresses too much, reinforce the packing. Repeat the test until the packing holds the artifact securely.

Common mistakes and how to fix them

Even experienced handlers make these errors. Here’s how to spot and correct them:

• Too much empty space: If the artifact shifts when you shake the crate, add more dunnage to fill the gaps. Use foam chunks or bubble wrap to create a snug fit.
• Dunnage that’s too soft: If the artifact settles to the bottom of the crate after a drop test, switch to firmer foam or add support rods.
• Moisture trapped inside the crate: Use desiccant packs (silica gel) to control humidity. Seal the desiccant in breathable pouches to prevent contact with the artifact.
• Dunnage that off-gasses: If you smell a strong chemical odor, switch to archival-grade polyethylene foam or Volara. Avoid materials labeled as “expanded polystyrene” or “styrofoam.”
• Improper labeling: If the crate arrives upside down or sideways, add orientation arrows and “This Side Up” labels. Include a diagram if the artifact has a specific handling position.

When to invest in custom solutions

Off-the-shelf dunnage works for many artifacts, but some require custom solutions. Consider ordering custom inserts or crates if:

• Your artifact has an irregular shape that standard foam can’t accommodate.
• You’re shipping multiple artifacts that need to be separated and stabilized individually.
• Your artifact is extremely fragile or valuable, and you want the highest level of protection.
• You’re shipping internationally, where handling can be rougher and inspections more frequent.

Custom solutions aren’t cheap, but they’re worth the investment for high-value or irreplaceable artifacts. Many archival suppliers offer 3D scanning services to create precise foam inserts from digital models of your artifact.

Budget-friendly alternatives for small museums or collectors

You don’t need a museum budget to pack artifacts safely. Here are cost-effective alternatives:

• Use archival foam scraps: Buy a large sheet of archival foam and cut it yourself. Leftover pieces can be repurposed for future shipments.
• Repurpose packing materials: Bubble wrap from online orders can be reused if it’s still in good condition. Avoid materials that have been stored in damp or dusty environments.
• DIY inserts: For simple shapes, use a craft knife to cut foam to size. Add layers for thicker cushioning.
• Share resources: Partner with other small museums or collectors to split the cost of custom inserts or crates.

Remember: the goal is to protect the artifact, not to spend a fortune. Even simple, well-chosen dunnage can prevent costly damage.

Who this ebook is for

This guide is written for anyone responsible for transporting artifacts—whether you’re a museum registrar, a private collector, an auction house specialist, or a conservator. If you’ve ever worried about damage during transit, this ebook will give you the tools to pack with confidence. Zero-Damage Artifact Transport breaks down every step, from material selection to final crating, with museum-tested methods you can apply immediately.

Frequently asked questions